Costa Rica Reflections

Poetry by undergraduate Andy Basabe....

She moves slowly, wearing a gown stitched of the sea and the breeze
Green cloth, verdant stretched taught over earthly curvature
Hummingbirds follow her glance, they drink nectar at her lips
Her dress won't taste so sweet, lying still on the bedroom floor.

Sugared heat, she tastes of the gods, slick from rain
If a bird can sing so pure, she can sing, she can howl
wet, succulent, abundant, dancing to thunder's peal
The most fallow earth wrapped in such clot attracts attention.

Julio Alegra's Alegoria del Cafe, 1932

Her proud innocence, soon laid bare by man and his telescope
man, eager to taste her fruit, caress her jewels, possess her limbs
He sells her secrets, opening sanctity to strangers
Simple pawn to the sin of beauty, her dress falls to her feet

Cheaply painted, the jewel of America sells coffee
Her dress in tatters, pride battered, eyes yet bright
She runs a hand over the scarlet feather in her hair

Wiping her eyes, she thinks of the bird that left it there.

Island biogeography concerns in Brazil

Disturbing study on forest disturbance and "defaunation" in the Atlantic rainforests of Brazil.  No Tapirs!  First link is the New York Times story.  The second is the journal where the article was published.

http://green.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/08/14/in-fragmented-brazilian-forest-few-species-survive/?smid=pl-share

Canale GR, Peres CA, Guidorizzi CE, Gatto CAF, Kierulff MCM (2012) Pervasive Defaunation of Forest Remnants in a Tropical Biodiversity Hotspot. PLoS ONE 7(8): e41671. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0041671

http://www.plosone.org/article/related/info%3Adoi%2F10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0041671

Bioacoustic recordings are worth alot

In an earlier post, I shared one of our bird teams recording clips from the Corcovado forest.  In this New York Times post, the author reveals how bird songs pre and post can reveal damage.

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/07/29/opinion/sunday/listen-to-the-soundscape.html?smid=pl-share

Rainforest stewardship and civic cartography

Ben Kane, 2012 graduate teaching assistant.

Spending a month in the steamy jungles of two Costa Rican communities provided not just an introduction to tropical biology and culture in one of the most ecologically diverse locations on the planet, but has instilled a strong connection to the place as well.  We spent our time exploring, mapping wildlife distributions, identifying an astonishing diversity of tree species, teaching elementary school children about the interactions between humans and nature, and helping with construction of a community center in a rural town.  I have come to believe that such a connection is at the core of a stewardship ethic.  It gives the theories of conservation a foundation, anchoring them to real places, animals, and people.  Without such a connection binding people to the things they could (and should) work to protect, it is all too easy to ignore the impacts of ones actions.  

Specifically, I believe that the participation itself is the primary means by which the connection is made.  Reading about the complexities of a place, and how they are intertwined can provide only an isolated and distant image of a place.  Being in a place, and directly interacting with its complexities is a powerful way to build a deep and lasting connection.  For people to sacrifice their personal luxury, I believe that a connection to what they are sacrificing for must often be present.  It was an amazing and a once in a lifetime experience for all eighteen students who spent a month of their summer studying in the wet tropical heat.  I think it also created a connection that will forever remind them to take action to help protect the nature and culture of Costa Rica.

In order to extend the sense of connection with the awesome diversity and beauty of the Costa Rican jungles to the greater public I have begun a project with the Huxley Spatial Institute to develop a web-map that encourages people to view and submit wildlife sightings in Carara National Park, in the central Pacific area of the country.  http://myweb.students.wwu.edu/kaneb2/carara/

The map will be used to document the diversity and distribution of wildlife in the park, and the management of the park is enthusiastic about using the information created by site users as a decision support system to help guide conservation strategy within the park.  An additional, and potentially powerful outcome of the project will be inclusion of the public and the resulting connection to the park and its wildlife.  My hope is that, as I have experienced in this month of observing and mapping the jungles of Costa Rica, the inclusion of the public will create a foundation for a stewardship ethic, and will result in an increased public support for conservation policies and actions.  As such, this is a platform for civic cartography, where the public cooperates to create a map that benefits society as a whole.

After visiting the main office at Carara National Park it became apparent that the National Park system in Costa Rica is in dire need of such support.  With crumbling, overgrown walkways, dilapidated buildings piled high with paperwork to be done, and electricity and supplies being paid for by park staff themselves, the infrastructure and funding to support the impressively large national system of conservation is in direct contrast to the wealth of species in the park.  The current economic crisis has lead the government to consider cutting as many jobs as make up the entire staff of all of the national parks in Costa Rica combined.  It is at a time like this when public support and participation will be absolutely necessary for the survival of the national park system in Costa Rica.

Rain forest sounds and sights

http://youtu.be/fwUnebiMtuw

This sound clip includes the howler monkey wake-up and numerous rainforest bird calls.

More rainforest sights

Solo Bueno

A ti te quiero Costa Rica
More than any chica
So suave y rica with all your natural beauty
Estoy haciendo ojitos a ti

Here living the dream of Pura Vida
Makes me wish this could be my every dia
My body and soul would never be fria
And I know there is no other place I'd rather be a

Oh, Costa Rica you will be forever in my corazon
Long after my airplane and I have flown
I will remember all the gifts you have shown
And also how easy it is to live without internet or phone

Still young at the fresh age of twenty-one
I admit to having gladly met your gorgeous beaches and ron
Please know I have never had so much fun

On this adventure filled with plenty of tortilla chips,
Muddy hiking trips, cool pina colada sips,
Dolphin tail flips, and especially those lovely salsa dancing hips
While surviving all of mama tierras hardships
I've gained so many brand new friendships

Thank you and gracias for treating me tan bien
I do not know when, but one day we shall meet again
My beautiful tica friend!

This letter of my amor comes from my very being
And unlike this poem my love for you has no fin

Tuanis and Bold
Tu amigo G Gold

Bug Poem

Bug Poem

By Sarah Lorse a.k.a. The Bug Queen

Some creep, some crawl

Others fly or fall

They’re simply bugs, that’s all

Some people shriek

Some swat and freak

I think they’re awesome, don’t say I’m a geek

Cockroaches may scuttle

But don’t get in a muddle

They don’t bite or pinch, they’re really quite subtle

Sweat bees may look scary

There’s no reason to parry

Let it land and you’ll see, no reason to be wary

A praying mantis may look haunting

If you’re a bug probably daunting

To me, it looks kind of vaunting

Moths are very gentle

If afraid, you’re a bit mental

If it lands on my hand, I feel sort of sentimental

Most people are wrong

Bugs do belong

Respect them and we’ll all get along

Except for maybe the mosquitos…

Sights of the Rainforest

Sirena sunset

Our 2012 program has entered it’s twilight.  We’ve left the Sirena Station and Corcovado National Park after seven days and eight nights with regular sightings of Tapirs, Spider Monkeys, Golden Orb Spiders, Hermit Crabs, Scarlet Macaws, grasshoppers bigger than your hands, Howler Monkeys, Katydids, Great Curassows, Crested Guans, Tiger Herons, Yellow-headed Caracaras, and Turkey Vultures.  Rarer sightings included Bull Sharks, American Crocodiles, White-collared peccaries, Magnificent Frigatebirds, Squirrel Monkeys, White-faced Capuchins, Red Brocket Deer, and Land Crabs. 

In the higher density canopy sites, our bird team recorded the sounds of nine different species while our botany team identified 24 unique trees among more than 40 individuals. But we really just scratched the surface of Corcovado’s biodiversity.  Costa Rica’s Biodiversity Institute, or INBio, completed a rapid ecological assessment of the Osa Peninsula and surrounding areas containing Corcovado National Park.  They reported 794 species of vascular plants and noted research identifying 46 species of amphibians, 58 bats, 124 mammals, 71 reptiles, and 375 birds among 38 different ecosystems (www.inbio.ac.cr). 

The Osa’s biological heart is the Corcovado Basin within the National Park.  University of Texas biologist Larry Gilbert is reported to have said that: “The diversity of ecological systems found on the Osa is not exceeded by any area of comparable size on earth” and National Geographic is often attributed with saying that Corcovado is “the most biologically intense place on the planet.”  Thus, it is unlikely that any of our 18 students will ever be immersed in such biodiversity again.  I told our Costa Rican partners at Sirena that I will forever be grateful for sharing this special place with our students whose eyes were filled with wonder, curiosity, bewilderment, and sometimes fear.  Sirena will remain in their memories and mine for a long time.

Whats Eating My Legs: A Compilation of Injuries and Illnesses Thus Far

What's Eating My Legs: A Compilation of Injuries and Illnesses Thus Far

 "Hey be careful out there!" We've all read the appendix (at least the cool headings that detailed necrotizing spider bites and bot flies allowing their babies to take up shop in the back of your head) and heard Troy exclaim this phrase many a time. Never did any of us really foresee any danger in this lush paradise that we chose to explore. Our naivety was soon proven and in the most unexpected of ways. 

  Our initial injury occurred on the very day of arrival in a seemingly harmless place, or so we thought.  This is the tale of Haley and her foot wound that would later be christened as "Herbert."  Perhaps it was the red eye flight that caused an extra lapse in brain functioning or an intense focus on the extreme game of water polo that was going on, we may never fully understand just how Haley managed to scrape off the top of her foot in a pool that at maximum was three feet deep. The gash spanned the length of her foot and is still the talk of the group.

Pros: Possibility of obtaining a scar comparable to those of celebrities such as Harry Potter and or "Scar" from Lion King.

Cons: No swimming or boot wearing for the first several days which meant missing some activities. Also having an open sand and dirt magnet on the top of your foot. 

Healing Time: approx. 22 days and counting.

    The next misadventure that we encountered included our dear friend Carla in what should have been yet another harmless circumstance.  It was during a run through of a children's game for the education team that she was vigorously portraying a human trying to capture a hoard of screeching macaws (the rest of us) all the while hopping on one foot. In an instant she came down on a leaf cutter ant during one of these hops and collapsed due to a rolled ankle. The result of this was an immediately swollen and bruised area that more resembled an odd species of purple grapefruit than and extension of a leg.

Pros: Looking like a badass with crutches

Cons: Having to hobble around on crutches in a place with no pavement

Healing Time: approx. 18 days and counting.

Carla's ankle a week after the event

      

      Since I am following the chronological order of these tragedies I must also mention the presence of two other foes we encountered, Montezuma's revenge and the dreaded flu.  The first of which needs little explaining, we all had our turn and were for the most part very candid about the experience. It seems that the second however was a result of all of these Western students hugging the same tree, I cannot imagine how else a flu could spread to so many people in such a short time (besides maybe the sharing of bottles , both of the rum and water variety.) 

Pros: The ever cool nasal voice associated with "Fran the Nanny," and a better likelihood that no one will try to share your food.

Cons: Not being able to distinguish between the liquid on your face as being sweat or snot.

Healing Time: Several days to a couple weeks.

   This brings us to my injury, or perhaps it is an illness, however you would classify an abrupt and heinous allergic reaction caused by an unknown stimulus.  My initial reaction to the red blisters that conglomerated around my swollen ankles and formed constellations up my shins was that I had somehow encountered a seriously gnarly bug that found me delicious enough to devour me from the feet up.  A few more days and progressively uglier legs later, a trip to the doctor revealed that some factor of my being in Costa Rica was causing my skin to turn against me....super helpful.  This meant that I was not allowed to wear sunscreen, bug spray, rubber boots, enter water, or shave my legs.  The affectionate term for my condition was HORL which stood for Hairy, Oozy, RashyW, Legs and it provided many a good conversation about the hideousness of it all.

Pros: High probability that you will have your own bus seat, being liberated from any responsibility to look good for the opposite sex. 

Cons: Extreme itching in a place with no accessibility to oven mitts. 

Healing Time: 10 days and counting. 

H.O.R.L. beginning to heal

  From the time I began writing this report several other injuries have occurred and it is only fair to include their discomfort as well.  These include but are not limited to James' possible cavity, Joan's deet rash, Hilary's hand wound from slipping in the shower ( yet to be named ), Amanda's mini Herbert, Troy's infamous "sting" ( healing time 3 days, period of whining infinite) and Claire's wasp sting, ( the hazard of open shorts.) Our path to self destruction will surely continue as the last week approaches and we can only hope that it will be as blog worthy as the last.

Hilary modeling her hand scrape.

Sirena Tapir

This strange beast visited us today. In Spanish, they call it a Danta.

http://youtu.be/sJX9IpClsYg

Costa Rica: Heads or Tails?

...Carla Galland

When I arrived in Costa Rica I was pretty much a blank slate when it came to knowledge about its culture and environment. I have a basic knowledge of Rainforest Ecology but nothing in depth and certainly not specifically about Costa Rica. I consider myself well traveled but I have never traveled to Latin America. Coming here with this mindset was very exciting to me and exactly what I wanted so that every moment was something of a learning experience. What I definitely wasn't expecting was to see two sides of Costa Rica that, yes, overlap in many ways but are different just the same...much like two sides to the same coin.

Above: Cabin the ladies stayed in while in El Sur.

Our first stop was a rural village situated on the southeast corner of Carara National Park; El Sur. For me it was a wonderful first exposure to Costa Rican culture. Everyone lived simply and a part of each others lives. It was just a big family and when we came we really felt a part of them.

Granted we did see and participate in some "tourist" activities such as the Trapiche (making sugar from the sugar cane the old fashioned way) but we never felt like we stepped out of the rustic El Sur life. We socialized with the people and were able to feel like we became a part of the community. So the question I ask; Is this Costa Rica?


Yes.

Above: Surfing lessons in Dominical.

Another place we visited was Dominical. It wasn't a high rise resort with all inclusive perks but it was a town that thrives on tourism just the same. Thai restaurants next door to an ice cream parlor and just down the street from a pizzeria gave us a little bit of a break from the rice and bean diet. I've been to resorts before and I know what to expect from them. Still, we had the opportunity to socialize with the locals although this area was far more urbanized than El Sure.

In addition we also participated in various other "touristy" acts both on our way to Dominical and while we were there. Such as the Monteverde Hike, Crocodile Tour on the Tarcoles River and Zip-lining. Again, is this Costa Rica?

Again my answer is Yes. Even though it caters to the foreigner aspect it isn't much different than certain regions on the United States that cater to the tourist trade but it isn't any less "American". I don't believe the people at these tourist venues are any less Costa Rican or their culture poorer for it.

I will concede that the experience was far richer and personable in El Sur. This encouraged my personal interest and increased my desire to learn about their culture more readily than had I just gone to a resort. I do not believe I would have completely lacked in my interest had I chosen to see Costa Rica as a true tourist. So I leave the question to you:

Costa Rica...Heads or Tails?

Back to Danta's Corcovado Lodge!

We had a special guest for our first breakfast on the Osa.

Who are these crazy people?

Haley Mountain: As I was preparing for my adventures in Costa Rica I had a lot of questions running through my mind. Does Troy know what he's doing? Will I get eaten alive by giant bugs? What the hell is the deal with these Scarlet Macaws? Am I going to be able to keep up with all this 'hiking' stuff? How am I supposed to fit all my stuff in this small pack?..and so on. The part that I didn't think about at all was the fact that I was about to be forced into a group with 20 other people I had never met and spend 5 weeks together, 24/7. And when I say 'together' I mean: sharing beds, cramming on buses, eating every meal together, and possibly sharing some very intimate moments ("Can you check this bite on my butt?"). The first week here I definitely had to stop and ask myself, "who are these crazy people that I'm experiencing this wonderful place with?". So far, knock on wood, this group...my group...has been absolutely amazing. When you share blood, sweat, and tears with someone in the first week of knowing them a lifelong friendship forms. We not only eat together, sleep together, and work together. We laugh, cry, take silly pictures, have deet-parties, and most of all, make fun of Troy together. My experience in Costa Rica has been amazing because of the nature, the food, the communities, and the towns but it wouldn't be nearly as enjoyable if I didn't have this crazy group of people to share it with. We are only half way through this experience and I'm already wishing that my group and I could all permanently move here, live in a big house, and go tumbling through the rainforest every day for the rest of time. Pure Vida.

El Sur mi Amor

Joan Hong: So we are about halfway through our trip and I can't even begin to explain how amazing this experience has been. I have seen many faces of Costa Rica, from the green environmental havens to the lush tourist resorts, but the one I have fallen in love with is neither of those. No, the Face of Costa Rica that I have come to love in my brief time here is that of the small towns that work with nature like El Sur. Carara National Park is located just a 30 minute (uphill) walk from the town. Carara itself is a beautiful forest with so many birds it made my head spin. A clay colored robin here, a scarlet macaw flying over there, a Guan or a turkey vulture perched in a tree in the distance, there was always something to look for. (Let me just add here that I am on the bird team so the birds really stick out the most to me.) My team spent six mornings listening to and counting bird calls in Carara and the peacefulness of the forest never ceased to awe and amaze me. El Sur boasts a tight-knit community of about 50 who live in harmony with nature. Although we only spent ten days in beautiful El Sur, I definitely shed some tears when I left. We hiked together, cooked together, danced together, drank together, laughed together and played some intense games of futbol together. One of our hosts even let the girls sleep in his home when army ants invaded our cabin. I often found myself wishing I could spend the entirety of the trip in El Sur. The community was so full of spirit and love, and in El Sur I could clearly see that Costa Rica is indeed the happiest place in the world.

Back in Ecotopia's Prism

Troy Abel... We have completed nearly half of our 2012 trip and I am back in Playa Dominical and around some reliable internet. For most of our last 15 days, we were living and working in the El Sur community in the hills on the southeastern tip of Carara National Park. Many students have written about this wonderful community before but for me, El Sur and their cooperative rural ecotourism cooperative Ecosur draws my attention to the dilemmas of sustainability. Below is one of the most common images used to represent sustainability. Ecology, economy, and social equity are in balance for a kind of cum by ya moment of e-cubed.

El Sur, and our program, instead are more consistent with a sustainability wrought with conflict as depicted in the next figure that comes from Scott Campbell's 1996 publication in the Journal of the American Planning Associating titled "Green cities, growing cities, just cities?

He provocatively argued that the sustainable development center “. . . cannot be reached directly, but only approximately and indirectly, through a sustained period of confronting and resolving. . . “ three conflicts. The property conflict between economic growth and equity involves competing claims on, and uses of property. In the resource conflict, there is the contradiction of resisting regulation of natural resource extraction and regulation to conserve resources for present and future demands. Finally, the development conflict lies between the social equity and environmental protection poles. The question Campbell poses is this. “How could those at the bottom of society find greater economic opportunity if environmental protection mandates diminished growth” (Campbell 1996, p. 5). In El Sur, they welcome our research tourism while at the same time cater to ATV tours from the nearby city of Jaco. Such contradictions are the topic of many a discussion within our group and continue as we move south towards the Osa Peninsula. Pura vida,